Refining the Collection

The First Two to Go

Refining the Collection: Two Heavy Hitters Go

In my last post, I outlined my decision to reduce the size of my collection and refocus it on the pieces that truly resonate with me. Now the process has begun and the first two watches have left my collection. As a hoarder, selling is never easy but you have to start with watches that truly no longer resonate with you. These are the first two to go.

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Patek Philippe 5270R: Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

A tad too big for me

Why I Bought It

When you think Patek, you have to think perpetual calendar chronograph. The 5270 line continues a legendary lineage that includes references like the 1518, 2499, 3970 and 5970. These watches represent what Patek does best; graceful aesthetics, haute horology, and mechanical complexity. I was determined to add a PCC to my collection.

The Vintage vs Modern Debate

What makes my purchase of the 5270R interesting is that I was seriously considering vintage alternatives; the 5970 and the 3970. At the time I found the 3970 too small and I am still not a fan of the dial. The 5970 had a strong appeal, with its slightly smaller 40mm case and the Lemania based movement. A new 5270 and a pre owned 5970 were not far off and a 3970 was 40k cheaper.

However, at the time, I didn’t have the confidence to make such a significant purchase as a pre-owned watch. Vintage and neo-vintage collecting requires a certain level of knowledge—understanding provenance, condition, service history, and originality—and I simply wasn’t at that stage yet. While I loved the idea of owning a 5970, I wasn’t ready to navigate the world of vintage watch buying at that level of spend. I imagine we all struggle with that and it is part of the watch collecting journey.

Beyond that, this was my first major watch purchase, and there was something special about buying a new watch. I wanted the full experience: walking into the boutique, peeling off the stickers, and knowing that I was the very first owner. Having my name on the papers. For me, that emotional connection was an important part of the journey. Also, I felt the CH 29-535 PS Q movement was a significant technical step up on the Leminia based movement in the 5970.

So, instead of the 5970, I went for the 5270R. It felt like the safer and more logical choice at the time, offering the best of Patek’s watchmaking with the reassurance of a brand new purchase. I did consider the 5270G, but the R was just more beautiful.

Why I let it go

Well, it is quite simple. I ended up buying a 5970. I used to get annoyed at people saying how how superior it is, but the second you put on a 5970 you just have to agree. Whichever way you look at it the 5270 will always be second fiddle. That does not mean it is not a great watch. The movement is epic and without doubt, it is the BEST watch to wind, just perfection.

I had thought to keep the piece in the collection for fullness, but beyond that, my experience with owning this watch has been far from perfect and that has been the main driver in letting it go.

A Frustrating Ownership Experience

For all its technical brilliance, my 5270R had its fair share of problems. In fact, the watch broke on day one. I remember I was at work, showing my colleagues this ridiculously expensive watch I had bought. I was explaining what made it so special, but I realised something was wrong. My heart sank.

The chronograph function had stopped working, forcing me to send it back for a full disassembly and repair on day one (see video below). The process took two months, which was frustrating for a brand new watch at this level. Patek and the retailer were supportive, but it was a galling experience.

When it finally came back, I was so happy to be able to enjoy it, only for it to stop working again three months later. A different issue this time. So again, back to Patek and another three months, without it. When it did come back, it had developed a third issue and needed to be sent to Switzerland for a full rebuild, a process that dragged on for another four months. By the time it returned, I had lost all confidence and interest in the watch. Rather than put it back into my regular rotation, I simply stuck it in the safe and tried to forget about it.

One of the many trips to my AD

Aesthetics & Wearability Issues

Even if the reliability had been perfect, the 5270R still wasn’t right for me. First, it wears large on the wrist; despite being 41mm, it feels quite dominant. Compared to the 5970, which has a more compact and refined presence, the 5270R feels noticeably bulkier despite being only 1mm larger.

Then there’s the issue of dial balance. This has been a common criticism of the 5270, particularly in the earlier versions before the “chin” at the bottom of the dial was removed. While Patek tried to refine the aesthetics, I’ve always felt the spacing of the sub-dials is just not quite right. Once you notice, you cant unsee it. It lacks the effortless symmetry of the 5970, which in my opinion remains the superior design.

Too many variations

My understanding is that there are seventeen variations of the 5270 that have been made thus far. That excludes special orders. If you compare this to the 5970 there were only four. For me that has taken a big shine off the reference, as it just does not feel that special anymore and certainly does not make them feel as collectable. There just are too many versions which is a big reason for the massive discounts in the secondary market. I don’t understand why anyone would buy one new these days.

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Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980R

Why I Bought It

I was racking my brains as to why I bought this watch. As many of you know I have an unhealthy love for gold neo vintage watches, and I imagine that was a big driver for me. It is the 2000’s Piaget Polo! I remember buying this watch a few days after the Brexit referendum in the UK. My background is in trading and I was keen to spend sterling because it had devalued so much yet watch RRP’s had not gone up yet.. a watch addict always finds a good reason to buy a watch! I really wanted the 5711, but of course they were already in short supply then. This felt like a great alternative, and it certainly turned out to be a great currency hedge. Far better than all the wine I bought on the same day.

Why I Let It Go

I have come to feel that the 5980 is Patek’s equivalent of the Royal Oak Offshore. Especially in gold, it feels and looks like you are wearing a brick.

As someone who likes smaller dress watches, it was never really my style. That’s not to say I did not enjoy wearing it. There is something so badass about it and it always brought a cheeky smile to my face. Sometimes it is fun to wear something that is not really your style. Oddly, it was a summer watch for me, and I wore it on many holidays in the south of France. I never dared to wear it to work as I was just too mortified of the reaction.

Times have changed, and I don’t really feel safe wearing it anymore, especially with a t-shirt! It is such a “mug me” watch unfortunately. Add to this that I now have a 5711 and a 5712 and I enjoy these more as they are much truer to the Genta design. Slim. Sporty. Elegant. I noticed I had not worn the watch for over eighteen months, which really said it all. It was clearly time to let it go.

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The Bigger Picture: Refining My Collection

Selling these two watches was quite a cathartic experience for me. Please don’t see this as a criticism of either references. I would never have bought them had I not liked them. It’s about curating a collection that is more personal and more aligned with what excites me today. It reaffirms my belief that I need to be far more focused and controlled when I buy.

What’s next? I’ll be sharing more updates on the watches I’m considering adding, as well as my thoughts on the evolving landscape of watch collecting. Stay tuned.