Horological Hiccups
“What Made Me Grumpy This Month”
Perhaps it is the July heat. Or perhaps being told that my Instagram stories are way too negative. Either way, I’ve found myself feeling a little grumpier than usual. My fellow watch geek Justin Hast suggested I embrace the grumpiness and put pen to paper!
Just to be clear, I have an unhealthy love affair with watches. Just like any long-term relationship, there are moments that test your patience. So, I have decided to share things that rubbed me the wrong way in the watch world this month. Consider this my collector’s version of a diary entry: hopefully equal parts rant, reflection, and sarcasm.
Playing Musical Chairs with My AD Contact
There is a particular sinking feeling that many collectors will recognise: you walk into your authorised dealer, ask for your regular contact, and hear the words, “oh, they no longer work here.”
It has happened to me a several times in the past few years. Every time I had built a relationship, invested time talking about references, sharing collection updates, even being flown out for factory tours. And then suddenly boom. They are gone.
Of course, I understand people move on. It’s natural in any business and I truly wish them all the best. But for collectors, these relationships aren’t purely transactional. They are built on trust, shared enthusiasm, and long-term financial commitment to a brand.
When a contact leaves, it often feels like starting from scratch: reintroducing yourself, rebuilding rapport, and, in some cases, explaining what you have bought from the brand. It can feel that you are starting at the bottom again.
Surely, there is a better way for dealers and brands to manage these transitions. Could there be a more seamless handover process? A personal introduction to your new advisor? Perhaps acknowledging the change and assuring collectors their relationship isn’t suddenly reset to zero? Maybe checking in a few months after the change to check the new relationship is working?
Because for collectors, these are not just sales associates. They are often partners in the journey and your madness for watch collecting. Losing that connection can make even the most loyal client feel a little adrift. They wonder whether they have the energy to start afresh. For me at least, it has always resulted in me spending less, which really makes me think brands would benefit from addressing handovers.
The GPHG: The Oscars… Sort Of
July is the time for GPHG nominations, and this invariably makes me grumpy. Every November, I follow the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève with a mixture of admiration and exasperation. On the one hand, it is the closest thing our industry has to the Oscars: a glittering celebration of watchmaking. On the other hand, well, it is also a little bit like the Oscars if Meryl Streep decided not to compete in the best actress category.
The thing is, that unlike the Academy Awards, where you are nominated whether you like it or not, the GPHG requires brands to pay to enter and to participate. Not only does that mean some of the most important players in watchmaking are not represented as they choose not to enter, but it also means some large groups with deep pockets are massivley overrepresented.
It’s a bit like crowning Best Actress without considering Meryl, Cate Blanchett, or Viola Davis. Sure, the award might still go to a deserving talent but it is hard to shake the feeling that the field is not complete.
Even more awkwardly, the pay-to-play model means that a third-rate performance (sorry I mean watch) may waltz into considerstion simply because its producer paid the entry fee. In a world that thrives on credibility and prestige, doesn’t that feel a tad… off?
Don’t get me wrong: there’s a lot to admire about the GPHG, and the winners often are exceptional. But imagine the legitimacy (and excitement) if every major company took part. It could become a true benchmark of excellence, something both collectors and brands could rally around. But yeah, I understand that the economics of such a model may not work.
Until then, it remains the Oscars of watchmaking. Just with a few A-listers missing from the red carpet. Of course I might be lot less grumpy were I invited to be on the jury.
Wined, Dined… But can they spell Patek?
Summer is a wonderful time for watch lovers. Brands are out in full force, hosting fabulous events at tennis tournaments, motor racing circuits and even jazz festivals. Champagne flows, VIP boxes are filled, and Instagram is awash with influencers and journalists (and a new breed of journo-fluencers) posing courtside or trackside under the banners of your favourite brand.
It all looks terribly glamorous… until you pause and ask: “Who are these people again?” and “Why are they there?”
More often than not, the guest list seems to be packed with lifestyle influencers and watch journalists whose horological knowledge starts and ends with knowing how to spell “Patek”. The majority probably don’t own a watch from the brand that is hosting them and never will unless the brand loans them one.
Meanwhile, collectors, the people who buy and live with these watches, watch from afar (sometimes literally, on Instagram Stories) and can’t help but feel slightly… irked.
Before you say it: yes, I know how this sounds. Jealous. Grumpy. Unloved. Like the mad man muttering at clouds. But I don’t think I’m alone. There’s a growing fatigue among big collectors who see brands pour endless resources into courting people with little true passion for horology. When you think of it we indirectly pay for these people to be wined and dined!
Imagine how much richer these events could be if the guests were a mix of journalists, influencers, and actual collectors: people with stories to tell about their pieces, people who could speak to the craftsmanship and heritage these brands work so hard to protect. I recall bringing some coin watches to a brand event and getting other collectors fascinated about the brand, whilst the journo-fluencers were whisked off to a VIP dinner having taken the customary moody selfies at the event.
To be clear, I’m not suggesting brands stop inviting lifestyle influencers or journalists. They bring visibility, and that is mega important. However at the higher end of horology, maybe there is room at the table for those of us who have been living in the watch world long before the hashtags. Hell, it might even make it easier to sell expensive watches.
Still Hopelessly Obsessed
So yes, I’m grumpy. But beneath the irritation is something simpler: a love for these crazy watches. There is so much I like, but when I critique it is because I care. I want the brands I admire to be their best. I want this hobby to feel as vibrant and inclusive as it once did. Let's see what August brings!